There are so many varieties of roses

Pruning is the process of cutting back the growth of a rose bush to produce a more healthy, productive plant. Few plants benefit more from pruning than roses. While the thought of taking a pair of shears to your prized rose may make you cringe, it is a necessary task.

There are so many varieties of roses, some having different pruning needs, that it is not possible here to discuss the specific procedure of every type rose (that would take an entire book). However, following the general advice here will work for most roses.

First, the objective of pruning is:
1. To open up the middle of the plant to air and light.
2. To remove dead or diseased wood
3. To remove canes that are growing in the wrong direction, i.e., crossing or rubbing another cane.

There are many different pruning techniques recommended by many different people. So many, in fact, that it can become very confusing. Our suggested method is based solely on our experience of growing roses for years. It may not be the best, in all situations, but it is the simplest and has worked for us. Just keep in mind the three objectives to pruning, listed above, and you will be O.K.

Roses are vigorous, tough plants and it is unlikely you will kill your rose by pruning improperly. You may reduce the production of blossoms for one season, but it's hard to actually kill a rose by pruning. So, don't be reluctant to prune.

There are two times of the year that are appropriate for pruning. Choose either you want, but take note of the cautions that follow.

You can prune in the spring as soon as the very first buds appear. This must be done before the buds begin to swell. And definitely not after the buds open, showing green foliage.

Or you can prune in the fall, after growth has stopped, but before the first frost. Be aware that rose canes only live for a given period of time, then they turn brown and die. They do not continue to grow forever, like trees. Therefore, it is likely you will always have some dead wood every year.

Here is our simple pruning method:
1. Stand back and observe the overall height of the plant.
2. Then cut it in half.
3. Remove any dead (brown) wood.
4. Remove any canes that are growing toward the center of the plant. And any canes that are rubbing other canes.
When pruning, cut at the live portion of the cane, just above an outward facing bud. Greenish white colored canes are live. Brown canes are dead.

If you are planting a new rose bush, you should prune nearly to the ground. Leave about 4-5 inch long canes. This will help your new rose to establish a good root system.

As stated above, we have used this simple pruning method for years and have beautiful roses every summer. It may not be scientific or the best for every type rose, but it works for us. If you prefer a detailed procedure for your specific type rose, do a search on the web for "Pruning Roses" and you will find hundreds of (some complicated) detailed methods to prune. Again, our goal, here, is to provide a simple pruning method for the average backyard gardener.

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Some of the popular orchid varieties

Exquisite, elegance, exotic...familiar terms used to describe the orchid. While the orchid is thought of as a tropical plant, there are so many varieties, you should be able to find one for your area.

In general, orchids can be grown outdoor in climates with a temperature range of 40-90 degrees. If you live in an area that exceeds these temperatures, consider growing orchids indoors.

If you are new to growing orchids, talk to your local garden shop. They will be familiar with your local growing conditions and can recommend an orchid variety known to do well in your area.

Indoor or out, orchids prefer moderate temperatures, but not a lot of direct sun. They will die quickly if the roots are continually wet, so they must be in well drained soil. Indoor gardeners should note that the largest cause for failure of indoor plants of all kinds, is over-watering.

Outdoor, plant your orchids in an area that is partially shaded by other plants during the heat of the day. Peat Moss added to the soil helps hold the moisture needed without soaking the roots. Orchids thrive in high humidity, so on hot, dry days mist the foliage occasionally. Fertilize very lightly every 2 weeks. Most garden shops have fertilizer designed specifically for orchids.

Indoor, use a good planting mix designed for orchids (available at most garden shops). Make sure your pots drain well and place in a window that gets subdued sun most of the day. Again, be very careful with watering. Do not water unless the soil is dry about 2-3 inches under the surface.

Some of the popular orchid varieties are:
* Cattleya Hybrids- These are the highly popular corsage flower
* Oncidiums- Can tolerate a less tropical environment
* Epidendrums- A good temperate climate orchid that will stand nearly full sun
* Plalaenopsis- Grows a long, arching spray of flowers. Thrives in humid, warm climates

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Green beans are very productive

Green beans are very productive even in poor soil and are ready for the table in 7-8 weeks. You can expect about 15 pounds of beans from a single 30 foot row of bush beans.

Your choice of bush or pole beans and how many to plant will depend on the size of your family and if you intend to preserve or freeze the beans.

Bush beans take up more space but require less work planting, staking, weeding and watering. Bush beans also produce most of the crop all at once, which is great for freezing. Pole beans are very prolific and you don't have to bend over to harvest. They mature later than bush beans and bear small amounts each day but will keep producing all summer long if you keep the mature beans picked. Pole beans are best for those interested in having a pot of beans on the table every 3 or 4 days rather than those interested in preserving their beans.

Pole beans, of course, require something to climb. Plant the seed in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Plant them in hills about 3 feet apart in the row. Place a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each hill. Plant three to four seeds around the stake, about 1 inch deep in the soil. As the bean vines mature, they will grow up the stake.

Another method which saves space is to take three six foot long wooden poles (don't use metal) and place them in a tripod arrangement, tying them together at the top. Plant 3 seeds around the base of each pole. This arrangement only takes about a three foot area, so you can have two of them in a six foot plot which will produce enough beans for a family of four.

To get a jump on the growing season, plant the beans indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost in peat pots. When the plants are 4 inches tall the peat pots can be planted directly in the garden without disturbing the roots.

To plant seed directly in the garden, prepare the soil by adding compost (I prefer well-aged manure) as soon as you can work the soil in the spring. Beans love the sun so be sure to plant your beans in a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of direct sun each day.

As the beans send out long shoots, train them to climb the poles if they do not do it own their own (generally, they will). Keep them watered but not soaked. Fertilize once when the plants start climbing the poles.

For bush beans, plant the seed about 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart in the row. The rows should be 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart. After the beans are up, thin the plants to 3 to 4 inches apart

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